Time Passed 200 Years &Nbsp; Cheongsam Flowers Returned.
What is the former life of cheongsam? People who read the novel "dream of Red Mansions" will not forget their exquisite description of costumes. When they come out, Baoyu will wear "two colors, gold, butterflies, flowers and scarlet sleeves". When Dai Yu first arrived at Jia Jia, Wang Xifeng was wearing "gold, 100 butterflies, big red, satin, narrow silver coat, multicolored silk stone, green rat".
These dress costumes before the birth of cheongsam, even in the abstract language, also emit bright radiant splendor.
And over 200 years later, reporters were lucky enough to witness these crossing the long river.
Elegant clothes
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The love of orchid butterfly Ci Xi and Princess concubine
A "Qing Guangxu pink silk embroidered 100 moth orchid pattern court shirt", pale pink.
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Embroidered with elegant and elegant orchids and butterflies on the top, this dress appeared in Yongle Chun, which is very beautiful with the "embroidered neon" - Mr. Jeff Chang's collection of embroidery and weaving in the Qing Dynasty. Mr. Dai Dai, head of the expert Department of Beijing Yongle International Auction Co., has also told reporters about the past and present of these Chinese costumes.
According to him, this dress was worn by the imperial concubines in the Qing Dynasty. The reason why it was called the shirt was that it was worn by concubines everyday.
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The embroidered orchid is the most popular ornamentation and court custom in the Ci Xi period.
Because Ci Xi's little name is "Lan Er", the month of birth is also the season of Magnolia blooming, so it can be seen in weaving embroidery, porcelain and other palace objects in the late Qing Dynasty.
As the highest head of the country at that time, Ci Xi emphasized his aesthetics very much.
In addition to having a special liking for orchids, she also likes purple vine and butterfly pattern, which can be seen from some old photos of Ci Xi.
In the exhibition, a piece of "Qing Guangxu BOLN color dark silk fabric embroidered with green satin embroidery embroidered with 100 butterflies on the side of the court" is Ci Xi's dress.
Outside this shawl is a BOLN coloured fabric embroidered with butterfly flowers, but the inner lining is bright yellow for the emperor.
Wearing the bright yellow, Mr. Dai explained: "bright yellow is the exclusive color of the emperor's empress dowager, but they can't be yellow all day, so they wear bright yellow inside, and the outside is their favorite color and pattern.
Like this hundred butterflies, there is both the meaning of happiness and the meaning of longevity.
In the 80 embroidered embroidered embroiders, most of them are women's costumes in the Qing Dynasty. What Jeff Chang likes best is a "clear road red embroidered embroidered eight regiment pleased to meet flower pattern palace court gown gown".
This gown is worn by the imperial concubines at the grand ceremony of the palace. The colors are gorgeous, and the patterns and decorations are characterized by the Daoguang period.
"Daoguang period is popular in this eight flower pattern, chest, chest and two shoulders have eight big flowers.
In the center of the flower is peony and butterfly next to it.
The ornamentation of this dress is called "Shoushan Fuhai". The red bat symbolizes the prosperity of the rainbow. The big peony on the two sleeves symbolizes wealth and auspiciousness.
Besides the gowns worn in the three seasons of spring and autumn and winter, the imperial concubines of the Qing Dynasty were also very particular about dressing in hot summer. The difference is that the color patterns are simpler and lighter than the other three seasons.
They especially like to wear a kind of clothes made of dark yarns. The colors are mainly deep blue and green. They have large Royal flower clusters and thin fabrics like cicada wings. The details are rich and reserved, giving people a feeling of calm in the lake.
The clothing and preferences of the lady of the flower house
Compared with the luxury of court costumes, the costumes of the rich and noble ladies in the Qing Dynasty were free and varied, and the patterns were different from those of the court.
Because some fixed patterns are forbidden by folk clothing, such as orchids, butterflies and big flowers, they can not be widely used in folk costume.
For this reason, on the skirts of the rich ladies, the reporters saw the elegant poco, sweet crabapple, and some gentle and lovely patterns of characters and cocks.
Like the imperial concubines, rich ladies wear different clothes on different occasions.
A scarlet and dazzling style, "Qing Tongzhi red feather sand, embroidered seed embroidered Bo flower flower pattern", is the daily dress of Qing Dynasty ladies.
Mr. Dai said that the biggest attraction was "embroidering some of the cloud shoulder ornament to make it easier for everyday wear and life."
Preview, embroidered skirt with various colors is also a highlight.
Embroidered pleats are the daily costumes of the Qing Dynasty, because they have no change in style, and there is no clothing for sale. The ladies are paying attention to the texture and ornamentation of the fabric.
From the late Qing Dynasty, the red and black yarn embroidered butterfly peony skirt, the late Qing stone embroidered butterfly flower peony skirt to the "Qing Tongzhi cream colored wrinkle silk embroidered lotus pattern pleated skirt", we can see the fashion and preferences of the upper class women in that era.
In addition to dressing up, the lady was also very concerned about the daily living things.
"Late Qing Dynasty Beige dark silk embroidered peony, Wan Fu Wen Huai crotch", "late Qing Blue Satin Embroidered twisted lotus branches with crotch", is two embroidered full of peony, Wan Fu, lotus and other patterns of scarves.
This kind of napkin was called "Huai crotch" at that time, also called "oral cloth", which is actually the napkin used for eating today.
The 20 year's collection is from the embroidered shoes of her great grandmother.
Jeff Chang, a prince of love songs (hereinafter referred to as "A Zhe"), is actually a unique collector.
His collection is very extensive, and the beauty that he retained in the past is his favorite: antique furniture, old photographs, oil lamps, glassware, ancient and national costumes.
As early as 2005, he published his own collection of playthings philosophy.
His biggest wish is to set up a museum of collection at the age of 50.
The weaving embroidery at Yongle auctions is a collection of 20 years and 30 years collected by him.
He also talked about the reasons for his collection of embroidery: the earliest was because of a pair of three inch golden lotus feet, the great grandmother, unable to live up to his tricks, gave him a pair of exquisite embroidered shoes.
After her great grandmother passed away, ah zhe drew many beautiful clothes that she had never seen before from her suitcase. He was surprised that her great grandmother had had such a beautiful youth.
In fact, ah Zai had the habit of keeping and collecting articles since childhood.
In order to collect, he can even go to the garbage dump to find treasure.
Of course, he often patronized the stores and auctions of New York, London, Paris, Hongkong and other places.
Apart from that, he was also a participant in the online auction, so he made a small mistake.
It was an auction on a London website. Ah zhe saw a favorite embroidered dress on it and took it down.
After receiving the items, I found that the clothes were genuine antiques, but their parts were modified.
Tianshi Tang costume understands that there are not many ancient embroidery fabrics, and there are probably thousands of them, and mainly remain overseas. At present, the embroidery on the market is basically returned overseas.
Because Westerners like Chinese embroidery very much, as early as eighteenth Century, weaving embroidery began to spread overseas.
At present, weaving embroidery is a relatively mature market overseas, and foreigners even wear the embroidered clothing to join PARTY.
But in the domestic market, such as the cultural revolution, it is almost impossible to see the quality of ancient embroidery.
Weaving embroidery also has a good investment potential, especially the palace embroidery. "Because the palace porcelain and miscellaneous pieces have been sold very expensive, a Guangxu bottle has been sold to 300 thousand, and this court dress is usually fifty thousand or sixty thousand."
In the Yongle spring shoot, Jeff Chang's most treasured estimate of the price is 200 thousand -30 million "qingdaoguang Red Satin Embroidered eight groups meet with flower pattern palace court gown", it took 414 thousand and 400 of the high price.
Weaving and embroidery are also better preserved.
If careful, it will last for hundreds of years. If we control temperature and humidity, we will be able to keep it forever.
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