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Unveil 500 Pairs Of Hands Behind Zegna Garments

2011/10/13 11:50:00 56

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Zegna Garments Ready To Wear

Zegna Shanghai global concept store

Before 1968, Anna Zegna (Anna Zegna) has been one of the largest suppliers of suit industry.

In the days that have not yet entered the garment industry, the majority

Suit

Consumers rarely see Zegna's logo on clothing.

In today's family members, the Zegna factory, which only focused on fabric and comfort at that time, seemed to be less concerned about the "right to speak of fashion" for "how to make a good suit" and "the trend of suit".

All along, in men "

Formal wear

There are two schools of "tit for tat".

In the early twentieth Century, the top of Britain

Tailor

Most of them are in the area of sage street in London. Their tailored tailoring makes the "absolutely formal" British garment eventually form the "sage", while the tailors from Naples, Italy and Milan prefer soft and casual clothes.

Perhaps because of the average height of Italy men in the European rankings, Italy tailors are better at using a slightly wider clothing version, a round shoulder type and a long waist, which make men look rather slender.

As the chief executive of the world, Gildo Zegna, the fourth generation member of the Zegna family, told Gildo that "parameterized customization" played a positive role in the care style and the American style suit. Because it did not care about the "harsh" version, the suit went into more "Zegna".

Despite the popularity of American style suits before and after World War II, it is not suitable for European or Asian stature.

Thus, the Italy tailor with "natural balance" became the mainstay of the garment industry.

In the end, the "covet" Aesthetical, comfortable clothes man made Italy men's wear the mainstream.

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In the mid twentieth Century, quite a few people who could afford high class suits came from the United States. These stars and mysterious traders swept nearly half of Europe's advanced customization with tens of thousands of dollars.

This is the "eyeball effect" brought about by fashion publishing, and the wearer begins to choose the clothes of character in order to get into the lace news.

In 50s, "New York guest" used a large length of reports to record the period of "Italy invasion" suit. At that time, people's dressing requirements for "Zheng Zheng" began to resurgence.

In the American drama mad man, you can see the way the suit used to be and its most popular Kennedy era.

In the 60s of the last century, the United States created the golden age of advertising. In the movie, Joe Hamm combed his head, dressed in a stiff suit, tied a tie or a bow tie, and recreated the "gentleman" trend.

Dress stars have really promoted the popularity of suits, and the strong Hollywood faces and entertainment symbols have become strong around the world. It is also in the 60s that "hippie culture prevailed" that suits have a conservative force and become the formal dress of the world.

It is generally believed that the suit originated in the era of the French Revolution in 1789.

A group of poverty-stricken people from the community formed "trousers pants" and served as the riders of the revolutionary forces. So the jacket and trousers of the riders were remembered, and some people began to learn to wear similar clothes, which was widely circulated by the looks that resemble the suits of today's suits.

Half a century later, the "trousers" jacket was made into a casual coat in England, which is often used as casual clothes, cricket or horse riding clothing.

When these sports became popular in the Middle East, "costumes" became one of the focuses of the arena.

In the early 70s, mysterious customers from Middle East countries were once the largest consumers of advanced customization.

They buy Italy's "full custom" in a low-key and covert way. Meanwhile, some Italy tailors go to the Middle East to make clothes for some of their families or become exclusive tailors of the family.

Francois Lesa (Francois Lesage) once said that Arabs such as the stars at the same time, when oil prices remain high, is also the most busy time for tailors.

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Zegna 2011 autumn winter men's wear Conference

Zegna's ready-made clothes appear in the late 60s, which is the age of conservatism and punk.

In 50s, Ermenegildo Zegna's (Ermenegildo Zegna)'s two sons, Aldo Zegna, and Angelo Zegna (Angelo Zegna) inherited their father's fabric factory and started the post-war recovery of Zegna, Zegna.

In 1968, they started a garment factory in Novara, Italy. 4 years later, Zegna began to customize (Su Misura) for its customers.

Paul Zegna, the current chairman of Zegna group, told the magazine: "Zegna at that time could meet the demand of over 350 kinds of fabrics and more than 120 kinds of seasonal fabrics." (Paolo Zegna)

Due to the good reputation of more than half a century, Zegna immediately attracted a large number of tailors from Naples, Milan and Turin.

"The quality of a suit is decided by three aspects: fabric, cutting and technology, and fabric determines two items. However, overemphasis on any aspect is biased."

Paul Zegna said.

The number of branches is the technical index (Superxxxs) that determines the quality of fabrics. The higher the number of branches, the more expensive the price.

Paul told this reporter: "Zegna's two most popular series are called Trofeo and 13Milmil13 series.

Trofeo is almost the best seller in every custom shop. The average diameter of wool contained in each cloth is 17 microns (equivalent to 130). Besides good appearance and abrasion resistance, it can eliminate wrinkles and restore flat.

The diameter of the 13Milmil13 series wool is only 13 microns, which is comparable to that of Super200 fabric.

This breathable wool is made from a limited number of Australian Merino wool. It needs to be carefully cut and tailored to make our original ultra light suit.

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Fabric, cutting and craft decide the quality of a suit.

"The best quality wool in Oceania is known as" Golden Fleece "in the fashion industry. The wool products produced by two families of wool producers in the Canterbury area of New Zealand, Simon (Simon) and Priscilla Cameron (Priscilla Cameron), are only 10.8 microns and soft.

Every year, the wool that is awarded the gold medal in the Australian wool competition will be exchanged for the same heavy gold that Zegna uses.

Paul said, "before Zegna founded the Zegna Vellus Aureum International Award in 2003, the world's best and softest wool is generally 13.9 microns.

Stimulated by huge rewards in recent years, wool producers finally reached the peak in 2008 and wrote the best record of 10.8 microns.

We have signed an agreement with the top Australian wool Association: the former will buy all the wool products of the shortlisted persons and sign a long-term cooperation agreement with the wool producers. These high quality wool will be used to produce the highest quality ErmenegildoZegna garments and accessories.

I remember very clearly that after a huge bonus, a wool producer proudly told his friend, "my wool has been chosen by Prince Charles."

"For a century, with the development of fashion industry and technology, the fabric of ready-made garments has undergone several revolutionary changes. But compared with that, the change of men's suits may be the most insignificant. It seems that the structure of suits has never changed since the structure of the suits has been on the rise."

Jill Zegna told the magazine that men's wear was much simpler.

"But I noticed that when the economy is in recession, people prefer to wear classic and monotonous versions. The color of the clothes will also be dark and single. When the economy is good, those fashionable things will come out. The collar is probably the most obvious and the most changeable part of the suit.

A few years ago, fashion week was once dubbed "circus" performance. New and strange costumes suddenly poured into New York, Paris and Milan. Designers used "cutting language" to show the uniqueness of each brand.

But there is no denying that this year's fashion week is no longer in the past. The Carine Roitfeld, the French editor of Vogue, believes that when fashion becomes an industry, the fashion world is no longer as interesting as it used to be.

When the trend of brand fever gradually subsided, big customers seem to have their eyes shifted back to men's clothing brands.

In their view, the subtle changes in their suits really show a change in men's attitude towards fashion.

Thus, in 2012, the spring and summer conference, which was known as "maybe the last day" fashion week, Zegna used a light color department to declare men's clothing "decent" and "relaxed".

"A suit is probably the most appropriate fashion."

Paul thinks that "wearing" can speak, suits will make people look more decent, and will also make behavior and speech more respected.

"As Sarkozy's suit is exaggerated by the media, smart Obama often shows himself in the elite image of Ermenegildo Zegna."